General Category > General Anim8or Forum
Newbie Hand Issues
davdud101:
--- Quote from: johnar on May 02, 2017, 04:09:20 am --- EDIT: To avoid confusion.
Once you've done the '0.5's it'll look like the top pic. (although i haven't painted the '0.5' on the 'purple to yellow' base of the finger.
--- End quote ---
Possibly the only thing I really dislike about Anim8or. Models should actually maybe start black or white BEFORE you paint them so you can see what's painted and what's not.
exile:
Thanks so much, Johnar, Davdud, Kyle and Ensonique5. Do I understand rightly that the side that gets the strongest weight is the one that borders on other fingers? Does that mean the middle and ring fingers should be 1.0 on both sides? Not being able to see the strength probably means starting over again if it doesn't work as hoped for the first time.
The revised model works much better than mine did, although I don't know if it's an animation revolution yet. The enclosed gif shows every 4th frame, so actually it's smoother, using only 2 key frames. Couldn't get the thumb to do what I wanted, just now realized the middle thumb joint was constrained not to move at all. I'll play around with those settings to see if it can make a fist.
Kyle mentioned switching hands, which I know about from 2D animation - most Anime Studio users put a set of hands on switch layers so any hand shape is available on any frame. Is that possible with Anim8or? Of course one hand that can make every pose would be the most elegant solution.
johnar:
--- Quote ---Do I understand rightly that the side that gets the strongest weight is the one that borders on other fingers? Does that mean the middle and ring fingers should be 1.0 on both sides?
--- End quote ---
No, the 2 outer seams of a knuckle get 1
The middle seam of the knuckle/joint gets 0.5
--- Quote ---Not being able to see the strength probably means starting over again if it doesn't work as hoped for the first time.
--- End quote ---
To reset the strength of a 0.5 middle seam, just paint again with the adjoining color, using 1, and the touch again with the 0.5 of the required color. (just as you originally paint the middle seam of a joint with a '1', and then go over it with a 0.5 of the second color.
(the pictures above are back to front.
The 2nd picture is what it looks like after painting the 1s.
The first picture is what it looks like after finishing with the 0.5s
davdud101 Yes. Actually i think that was talked about in the 'ongoing builds' discussion..... might see if i can find it......
ENSONIQ5:
The idea with weights is that points mapped to a particular bone with a weight of 1.0 will not change their position relative to that bone. So if the bone moves, those points will be effectively locked to it. Points with a 0.5 weight to one bone and a 0.5 weight to an adjoining bone will be partially mapped to both, so if one bone moves and the other doesn't these points will kinda spread out or bunch up in an 'organic' way.
That's a bit of an awkward explanation. To use an example, if you consider a point on your forearm midway between your elbow and wrist, that point is entirely locked to your radius bone (ignoring the mushyness of flesh and the fact that wrists can twist). Regardless of how you bend your elbow or wrist, that point effectively maintains its location relative to your radius bone. Consider another point midway between your elbow and shoulder, that is similarly locked to your humerus. But if you look at your elbow, there are 'points' there that are kinda influenced by both bones, so the skin stretches on the outside and contracts on the inside when you bend your elbow. The bone influence and weight painting functions simulate this by allowing you to define how (and how much) these 'intermediary' points should move when the skeleton moves.
So, when you're mapping your hand model, all the points that need to move 100% with, say, the tip of the pinky should be mapped with a weight of 1.0 to the pinky tip bone. But those extra points that were added at each joint need to be mapped partially to that bone and partially to the next one down, so they find a half-way position when the pinky bone is moved. No points on the fingers should map to more than one finger, otherwise when you move the pinky some of the points on the ring finger will move, which isn't what you want. The 'soft gradient' that can be obtained with the weight painting tool should only be between points associated with two adjoining bones, so those points move in an 'organic' way when a bone is moved.
johnar:
Nice one ENSONIQ5 ;)
An interesting thing is the way a 'thumb' is actually set up in real life:
Notice the thumbs in regard to positition and skin cover.
This is froyds hand:
Theres only 2 bones in the actual thumb. The 3rd bone is in the side heel of the hand, and that one moves, unlike the rest of those hand bones, which are static.
So this thumb setup, which seems the most common way of setting up a hand rig,
,
is fundamentally incorrect... :o ...
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