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Author Topic: Raxx's 3D Printer Project  (Read 14644 times)


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Re: Raxx's 3D Printer Project
« Reply #15 on: December 23, 2011, 10:57:23 pm »

Bill Of Materials

Critical Parts are those that absolutely must be used for the printer model I'm making. Please note that most of these parts can be made from scratch or assembled, rather than purchased whole.
Supplemental Parts are either optional add-ons, or parts that could be swapped with other variations to achieve the same thing.
Tools & Non-essentials include items that are required for me to complete the project on the whole, rather than just the printer, and include items that could be swapped with other variations or alternatives to achieve the same thing.

Critical Parts For The 3D PrinterDetailsCost
*Linear Bearing Reprap Prusa Kit w/ Wades Extruder (SAE Version)This kit includes everything needed to build the Prusa model except for the electrical components, metal rods, and power supply.$199.95
Five Kysan 1124090 Nema 17 Stepper MotorsMotors to move the extruder around the frame$107.50
RAMPS Pre-Assembled Kit CompleteThe electronics or "brain" of the RepRap.$200.00
MakerGear Hot End Kit for 1.75mm FilamentThis is the hot part that melts the filament and dispatches it onto the board.$86.00
Prusa PCB Heated BedFor larger builds and ABS filament, a heated bed is necessary to prevent warping.$55.00
24 feet of 5/16" Threaded Metal Rods From Lowe'sOnly 18 feet are required overall, bought extra in case of errors in cutting/fitting. Note that there are also smooth metal rods at Lowe's, but they are not of good enough quality.$15.12
9 feet of 5/16" Smooth Metal RodsAlso known as Drill Rods.$13.56
Hobbed BoltThe Prusa kit comes with an un-hobbed bolt. I didn't really have the means to hobb it myself (no mount or tap), and it seemed iffy for a beginner, so I just purchased it separately instead.$7.00
Supplemental PartsDetailsCost
PLA 1.75mm Natural 1Kg on Spool (Protoparadigm)PLA (Polylactic acid), comes from renewable resources like corn and is more brittle than ABS with a lower melting temperature. Harder to extrude and so puts more wear on the extruder. Natural PLA can be dissipated at high temperature, making it great for casting. Sweet smell when being melted.$40.00
ABS 1.75mm Natural 1Kg on Spool (Protoparadigm)ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), comes from non-renewable resources like petroleum and is less brittle than ABS with a higher temperature. Easier to extrude so puts less wear on the extruder. Tends to warp unless the printer has a heating bed. Bad smell when being melted.$40.00
PLA 1.75mm Natural 1Kg on Spool (Ultimachine)Different provider of PLA, to compare possible differences in quality.$42.00
iMicro 400W ATX12V Power SupplyTo be converted to a lab power supply. Any power supply that has at least 12v 20amp capabilities will work for a Prusa w/ heat bed, so long as you make the proper modifications.$14.35
Tools & Non-EssentialsDetailsCost
Aoyue 937+ Digital Soldering StationIt was about time to invest in a better quality soldering iron. Has digital thermostat control$48.99
Pro Gravity Airbrushing SystemIncludes air compressor and airbrush. Best deal I could find with the best ratings.$75.96
SE Caliper, Electronic Stainless Steel BodyThis was recommended on a Reprap website. Calipers that read to the 0.1 in or mm, with a digital display. Seems like an awesome investment for future projects.$10.38
Sinometer DT9205 8-Function 32-Range Digital MultimeterA multimeter to take electrical readings. Always wanted one of these so now that I have an excuse...$14.99
The Classics 12-Inch Stainless Steel Ruler with Cork Backing (TPG-152)Works as both a ruler and a straight edge. Never know when you'd need one$3.99
SE 3" Universal Aluminum Table ViseA small vise for me to put on the desk. Will function as a third hand!$12.58
Irwin Industrial Tools 2078317 7-Inch Multi Tool Stripper, Cutter and Crimper with ProTouch GripsAn expensive wire stripper and cutter, but a much needed expensive wire stripper and cutter :P$10.80
Maxtech 16521MX 32-Piece Precision Bit Set32 different bits from phillips to flathead to hex to torx$8.73
Iwata-Medea Cleaning StationCleaner and holder for the airbrush. Will save a load of time.$21.90
Createx Airbrush Cleaner 4 oz.Water will do for the most part, but cleaner is good for clean-up and maintenance at the end of a paint job.$2.90
12 assorted colors of 4oz Airbrush paint, $4.15 eaI'd rather have too much than not enough, with this tight deadline.$49.80
Stanley 42-294 8-Inch Torpedo LevelLevel to ensure proper balance for both the printer and the desk it's sitting on.$5.88
Kobalt 2PC 6" FilesMetal files for various filing tasks. Bought at a local store (Lowe's)$6.38
12" 24t Bi-Metal Hack Saw Blades, 2 countFor my hack saw, to cut the metal rods to size.$3.48
Sankyo Music Box Movements, 18 note lot of 10The music box "music" boxes. Comes with winding keys and mounting screws.$12.00
Variety of 13 Medium to Large Spiral Watch SpringsClock springs, also known as power springs, add more torque to objects when wound up. I may or may not have to use these to assist the music box movements' torque.$8.00

...The expression on Raxx's face (or at least fingertips for the sake of photos to come) when he realizes he needs a set of small dilithium crystals which were not mentioned in the plans until yesterday's e-mail technical update......... PRICELESS!


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Re: Raxx's 3D Printer Project
« Reply #16 on: December 24, 2011, 11:11:44 am »

I'm wondering how it is fed with the data? Does it have any application that will serve as converter from 3d data to raw driver instructions, or you have to program it on your own?


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Re: Raxx's 3D Printer Project
« Reply #17 on: December 24, 2011, 01:39:42 pm »

cooldude234, depends on how well their husbands treat them ;)

Arik_the_Red, hah, yeah...The part of the project where I had to run out around town a bajillion times trying to find parts not sold locally and then resorting to online purchases which further delayed the project's development, sucked. Thankfully, I haven't had to go where no man has gone before, just yet :P

dwsel, the process is fairly simple now. Well, still a little painful for the less adept, people that have more experience with using a work pipeline with multiple 3D programs like what we (the Anim8or community) are used to won't find it hard at all.

Basically, you take a regular completely manifold (no holes in faces) model and convert it to STL format (I use Meshlab, which is a nice 3D converter and toolkit). Then you can pick from a few programs coded by the reprap core developers to slice the model into GCode, which is machine code used by repraps and cnc mills and such. Then you use one of 3 or 4 host software (I'm using Repetier right now) that's developed by reprap'ers to connect and communicate (via usb) with the printer's Arduino-based electronics. The electronics interpret the g-code into actual movements of the 3 axes motors, the extruder motor, and the temperature of the print bed and hot-end.


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Re: Raxx's 3D Printer Project
« Reply #18 on: January 03, 2012, 03:07:03 am »

I don't know if I ever commented on this… amazing work here, Raxx. I can't believe you actually made your own 3D printer. :o

Also, I think you should check this out:
People may want to send some stuff your way so you can print it for them. xD


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Re: Raxx's 3D Printer Project
« Reply #19 on: January 04, 2012, 02:54:25 am »

I never thought of combining minecraft with 3D printers!
Although you could just export the schematic from mcedit into a usable 3d object format then convert it to the stuff the 3d printer needs. So that way Raxx could do it 100% himself.

Damn now I want my minecraft medieval town as a real model :P
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